Friday, July 2, 2010

Poles don't Jaywalk

Flying into Krakow was an interesting experience unlike others I've had flying into cities of a significant size.  Looking out the window of the airplane, I saw huge concrete buildings like giant bricks plunked down all over the outskirts of Krakow.  The remnants of the communist regime, these residential blocks certainly don't inspire the awe of a traveller approaching a city like New York or Vancouver.   Even the skyline of Brussels (however much I could see) had some interest to it.  With Krakow, just these concrete bricklike things. 

That's not the only remnant of the communist regime that I've noticed here.  First of all, one can go to Nova Huta, a suburb with an industrial complex where one can bask in the glory of the workers and the party.  Another remnant is the "bar mleczny" - a cafeteria style eatery that continues to be subsidized by the goverment, with these subsidies dating back to the communist days.  I went into one yesterday while walking around the Old Town, and was treated to a cheap, satisfying mean of ghoulasz, potatoes and a salad of pickled vegetables.  Add a Nestea to that, and you get a meal for a little more than $5.

Whether it's a holdover from communist times or not, the beer in Krakow is also far cheaper than ordering a draught back home, or in most of Europe.  Walk into any bar and ask for a piwo and you'll get 1/2 a litre of a local lager.  While cold and drinkable, I'm looking forward to getting to Weimar on Sunday and sitting back with a nice glass of dunkel (dark beer).  Unfortunately, the German dunkels won't cost $2.50.

If you're still reading and wondering why I've titled this blog "Poles don't Jaywalk" is because this is what I believe to be the most interesting sign of a post-communist country.  For anyone who comes from a big city in the north-east of North America, jaywalking is as natural as avoiding taxis while on a bike.  If there's a gap in the cars, you cross!  If you need to get across the street and there's no crossing in sight, you cross! 

In Poland, if the light is red, and there are no cars coming, they wait.  And wait. And wait. And when the light is green, they go.  Did the police in communist times target Jaywalkers with fines, or worse?  Or was the population so afraid of breaking any kind of law that this fear manifested itself in a behaviour that is so unusual to the North American psyche?

So that's today's blog.  Remnants of communism in Krakow in 2010.  Just remember two things.  That little dish in the store right next to the cashier is where you put the money, and they put your change (they never hand your change directly to you).  And Poles don't Jaywalk.

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